Brand News

Perfume licenses moving

Dolce & Gabbana announced to take its fragrance and cosmetics licenses in-house. Since 2016 the licensee has been Shiseido. Prior licensees were Coty, Inc. and P+G from 2006.

Notoriously, P+G acquired the license through an auction.

Already in 2021 Estee Lauder and four of its licensors split amicably: Zegna, Michael Kors, Donna Karan / DKNY, and Tommy Hilfiger.

Some found new licensees in the meantime.

Many attempts by fashion houses to manage fragrances in-house were less than successful. Examples were Donna Karan, and Escada.

Bewegung bei Parfumlizenzen

Dolce & Gabbana kündigt an, das Parfum- und Kosmetikgeschäft Inhouse zu holen. Die Lizenz lag seit 2016 bei Shiseido, zuvor u. A. bei Coty, Inc. und ab 2006 bei P&G.

P&G hatte die Dolce & Gabbana Lizenz in einer Aufsehen erregenden Versteigerung erworben.

Bereits 2021 trennten sich Estee Lauder und vier Lizenzgeber: Zegna, Michael Kors, Donna Karan / DKNY und Tommy Hilfiger.

Einige fanden bereits neue Lizenznehmer.

Viele Versuche von Modemarken, Parfum inhouse zu führen, schlugen fehl. So zum Beispiel anfangs Donna Karan oder Escada.

Gardena clothing

Workwear is popular, and promises durability and sustainability.

Following this trend, the gardening tools and equipment brand, Gardena, signed a license for clothing.

The licensee is Schmidt Group, which already sells brands like Kappa, and Chiemsee.

Gardena Bekleidung

Der Popularität von Arbeitsbekleidung folgend, hat die Gartenmarke Gardena eine Lizenz für Bekleidung vergeben.

Lizenznehmer ist die Schmidt Gruppe, die u. A. bereits Marken wie Kappa und Chiemsee vertriebt.

Gruyère or just cheese?

The NYT has an article about a court ruling in regards to protected designation of origin (PDO). The product in question is Gruyère cheese.

We all are used to Champagne, Cognac, Prosciutto di Parma, Kentucky Straight Bourbon, and many other PDOs.

In some cases the protected designation of origin makes for a good story. For example, aging the sparkling wine with 2nd fermentation in the bottle was invented by German cellar masters. Some French then hired German wine makers and copied the method, labeling their sparkling wine after their region, Champagne.

After some legal fights, wine makers from outside the Champagne settled on Méthode Champenoise.

Back to cheese, the English will intervene, if you call your cheese ‘Stilton’. The Dutch protect their Edamer, the Swiss their Appenzeller.

To prevent costly legal fights, the “Méthode …” seems a logical route. Or to create a new name, like French cotton material, ‘De Nimes’, became denim. And some cheese is labeled “Old Amsterdam”.